Fleurie gets the juices flowing – wines of the week

The Beaujolais region is often undervalued and for a while, resting on its laurels, deserved its drop from fashionable dinner tables. It’s back again with a bang, and while we have to pay more than we did for Beaujolais Nouveau which was hyped beyond its worth, value comes with quality. A trio of delicious samples came my way and I was re-converted. Of course the grape of this region is Gamay, often light and for me always a summer red option. The problem is that often there isn’t much fruit on offer and it seems like a watered down version of a good wine. This three proved different.

Moulin-à-Vent – Potel Aviron €17.99 from Celtic Whiskey Shop, Dublin
100% Gamay from 60-year old vines growing in granitic sub-soils in the prestigious Romanèche-Thorin hill in Beaujolais. Not over-oaked, gentle and elegant. After a rest for 14 months in new and old oak, this 2011 is ready now. Summer salads with thin slices of rare beef.

And how about this one, well drained and sitting in my kitchen waiting for appreciation.

Fleurie La Chapelle de Guinchay €17 Marks & Spencer is a beautifully balanced wine, with a little oomph to take a little smoked duck, beef, a salty strand of Serrano or prosciutto. Fair value.

Louis Tete Brouilly is a safe bet from Marks & Spencer at a realistic €17. Plenty of good, ripe fruit for easy drinking and a little perfumed. Fair value. Cheesy salads, light cheeses, beef, chicken, sausages –general picnic foods.