Food, wine, travel, music
Le Caveau in Kilkenny never disappoints in exposing us to new and exciting people and their wines. Owner Pascal Rossignol has a palate that echoes my own and I find myself nodding in agreement as he quietly enthuses. In Cork Colm McCan serves him well and they make a good team as seen in their recent tasting St Peter’s church, Cork exhibition space.
Wiston Estate blanc de blancs. In the capable, experienced hands of Tipperary born (and Rory Gallagher devoted fan) Dermot Sugrue his Sussex vineyard continues to produce elegant sparkles .
Ambroise, Coteaux Bourguignons chardonnay Lettre d’Eloise 2014. A little weight, a touch of oak, well balanced, suited obviously for fish dishes, but also summer charcuterie plates, this is a good buy.
Bourgogne Hauts de Nuit chardonnay 2013 is a delicious partly aged barrel oaked wine which also spend a year in new oak to good effect. Not at all overoaked.
Ambroise Coteaux Bourguignons pinot noir Lettre d’Eloise 2014. An easy drinking fruity red is good for summer salads, perhaps served chilled.
Ambroise Cotes de Nuits Villages 2015 has bright tannins, plenty of fruit, and can be kept for 10 years to enjoy with sauced red meat dishes.
Guy Allion Touraine Sauvignin Blanc Hat Perron 2016 has pear (from the clay and flint soil), some citrus is a deliciously fresh which is perfect for oysters and mussels
Guy Allion Touraine Gamay Rosé Le Sonnemot 2015 is typically spicy of the area with a strawberry overtone. The bottle shape is Italian referring to a history of Catherine de Medici in the area. 10 months on the lees gives it depth. Ideal with scallops.
Chaume-Arnaud Vinsobres AC 2014 has lots of texture, structured tannins, good balance from three weeks maceration, no oak, fermentation in stainless steel followed by 12-18 months in concrete. The latter always sounds unappetizing but the result defies this.
Tour des Gendres Cuvée des Conti 2015 is a dry Bergerac entry level white which has lots of fruit and good length in a blend of 40% sauvignon blanc 50% semillon and 10% macerated for three days. Guillaume de Conti is in charge there now.
Tour de Gendres Le Classique 2015. This Bergerac is a blend of 60% merlot and 40% malbec in an easy drinking wine suited to summer parties. Well balanced, it has good length.
Tour de Gendres Gloire de Mon Pere. This 2014 vintage is a good one and with more mature vines and some microoxidation we find the resulting balanced wine a delicious mouthful.
Foradori Fontanasanta Nosiola IGT Vignetti delle Dolomiti 2015. The grape type is nosiola and the skin contact makes it a rosé which is matured in clay amphorae providing good length and an interesting complexity that begs a second glass. Costs a bit more than most rosés we see in supermarkets, but worth it.
Terra di Pietre Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Rosson 2010. You pay for this wine, as for all good amarones, but you reap the rewards with a delicious, full, satisfying dip into this wine region.
La Stoppa Macchiona Emilia Rosso IGT is made from the top selection of barbera and bonarda grapes in this vineyard. Long maceration makes the best of the collection and it is matured in Slavonian oak (all good casks come from Eastern Europe, I am told). “Time makes miracles”, they say, and yet this wine keeps a freshness. Delicious!
Ampleia Costa Toscana IGT 2013 is made from Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese is complex and a bridge between traditional methods and international appeal. A touch of SuperTuscan about this one.